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The fourth chapter revisits the animal kingdom, evoking mythic bestiary and ancient fauna. Flora and fauna, as well as the breath-taking landscapes they inhabit, are brought to life by unique gemstones - each of them a precious talisman of the big, bold natural world. Some necklaces are designed with detachable pendants to be worn as a personally-chosen auspicious charms - or the dazzling array of brooches, allowing the wearer to create a bouquet of jewels to wreathe the décolletage. For this, each gemstone has been fastid- iously chosen for its delicate, light colour, like the sunset-hued pinkish-orange Pad- paradscha sapphire, which resembles a rose petal on the cusp of blooming, or the deep indigo of the indicolite tourmalines, as inky as a night sky. Rococo bows and talismanic sautoirs pay homage to the poetic universe of botanicals, so frequently associated as a symbol of renewal and love.
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In the third chapter of ‘Hortus Deliciarum’, the romanticism of a rose garden forms the foundation for the most delicate and feminine narrative yet. Here, opals and to- pazes sit alongside spessartite garnets and tourmalines in a skyscape of rich, warm colours on a breath-taking Georgiana collet-set Rivière necklace with a 8-carat opal is set with twilight-hued gemstones in what Michele describes as “discordant sym- metry”, elegantly ever-so-slightly mismatched to channel the transcendent ephem- erality of a sky’s quickly-changing colours as it passes from day to night, whilst dis- torting and disrupting traditional classicism. Here, styles borrow from the highly romantic - perhaps even gothic - bygone settings of the nine- teenth-century, voluptuously wallowing in the past while remaining resolutely mod- ern, courtesy of bold new settings and highly unique gemstones. The saturated, hypnotic hues of a sky at sunset informs the second chapter of the collection, which immortalises the fleeting magic of nightfall. Dazzling neck- laces are especially bold and unequivocal, like the bibbed, spinel-dotted explosion of diamonds that is just as mesmeric as the Aurora Boreali, or a 6.13-carat emerald parure is as vividly green as a springtime leaf, set amidst a constellation of diamond stars that dance centre stage, as if they were being orbited in a spectacular, shiny solar system. An array of violet and plum-col- oured spinels float tonally amidst dangling drops of diamonds, whilst lagoon-like Paraiba tourmalines are used to evoke the bright azure of the ocean. Not seen since in such splendour since the Roaring Twenties exactly a century ago, Ales- sandro has heralded the return of fringed and tasselled necklaces and chandelier earrings with a distinctly new context a century on.
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Here, fringes embody a sense of spellbinding movement and ornateness, much like star-crossed skies. Cascades of diamonds evoke sparkling torrents of a waterfall, while quivering en tremblant Victoriana leaves and stars evoke shoot- ing meteors and the delicate harmony of Mother Nature. Monumental natural features, such as waterfalls and softly windblown forestry, are re-created in miniature in jew- els that are delicate and romantic. The first chapter is an ode to the majestic beauty of natural landscapes, recreating the great outdoors as preciously intimate talismans. The collec- tion comprises more than 130 pieces, largely one of a kind, and its motifs are divided into 4 chapters informed by the majestic beauty of the natural world.
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Drawing on the symbolic motifs that are dear to him and Gucci’s multifarious canon of house iconography, the col- lection takes its cue from the ephemeral yet recurring beauty of the changing sky and its shifting colours and constellations - and the simple, spiritual pleasure of looking up, wherever you are in the world, to take it all in in a moment of wonder. Gucci Hortus Deliciarum Jewelry Collection: Inspired the mesmeric hues of the sky at various times of the day, HORTUS DELICIARUM - which translates from Latin as ‘Garden of Delights’ - echoes the eclectic quixotism of Alessandro’s kaleidoscopic universe.